Tiktok trend exposes london's gentrification debate, one sausage roll at a time
A seemingly innocuous TikTok video showcasing a weekend in north London has ignited a fascinating, and surprisingly heated, debate about gentrification, class, and the shifting landscape of the city. It all started with a young woman’s curated list of favorite spots – Jolene bakery, Gail’s, and De Beauvoir Deli – sparking a wave of incredulity from locals who’d never heard of them.
The 'endz department for research' is born
Enter Moses Combe, a 21-year-old Londoner who, rather than simply dismissing the video, decided to investigate. Dubbing his explorations the ‘Endz Department for Research,’ Combe embarked on a mission to sample the establishments, beginning with a hot chocolate, sausage roll, and his first-ever tiramisu at Jolene. His verdict? “Bloody lovely.” The series has already garnered significant attention, with a crowdfunder to support his ongoing investigations raising over £2,500, aiming to explore “the change going on in our own back yards.” His £14.20 bill at Jolene, he noted, while “not quite Greggs,” featured a sausage roll of exceptional quality – “They did not skimp out with that sausage, bro.”
Combe isn’t alone in this trend of reviewing upmarket cafes. Kobi Coker, a 27-year-old comedian and educator, has found himself similarly drawn to exploring the impact of gentrification on his local area. What began as noticing new establishments during his daily cycle to work has evolved into a series of videos questioning, “What makes this place so popular?” Coker's reviews of Dusty Knuckle, Jolene, Gail's, and Pret have resonated with viewers, prompting reflection on the changing dynamics of London neighborhoods.
The Price of Progress? Coker acknowledges the influx of new businesses and ideas but raises a crucial point: “the problem is that people that made the community what it is aren’t necessarily able to participate in it.” His assessment of Dusty Knuckle’s egg and bacon hot cross buns, costing £17.30 (a sum he theatrically laments), was effusive – “absolutely sensational… I can’t think of many better sandwiches I’ve had in my life.”
Matthew Roberts, operations manager at Jolene, welcomes the attention, stating, “It’s all very positive. It’s really nice for people to be talking about us.” He playfully concedes the Greggs comparison, adding that conversations about gentrification can sometimes flatten the different scales at which businesses operate. Jolene, with its four locations, competes with national chains like Gail’s and Pret, which boast hundreds of outlets across the UK.
Harry Davies, from De Beauvoir Deli, downplayed any surge in customers but highlighted the unfairness of price comparisons, emphasizing the deli’s commitment to sustainability, fair wages, and quality ingredients. “We’re a London living wage employer, and we use free-range meat in our sandwiches,” he asserted. “Everyone likes nice Food.”
For Daniel Poon, the trend is simply about exploration. Growing up in Woolwich, he sought to discover and share authentic experiences, leading him to review everything from neighborhood staples to mainstream chains, like Pret’s occasionally misguided attempts at international flavors – his assessment of their ube drink highlighted the tendency for chains to “try to make it very western.”
The viral videos aren’t just about the Food itself; they’re a lens through which a generation is grappling with the complexities of a rapidly changing city, questioning who can afford to partake in its evolution. The lingering question isn’t whether these trendy cafes are “good” or “bad,” but whether their success comes at the expense of the communities that shaped them.