Mitsu: london’s new izakaya takes root, ditching nobu’s soul

London’s dining scene has a new contender, and it’s already generating buzz – Mitsu, a sleek izakaya replacing the cavernous and notoriously difficult-to-book Nobu Shoreditch. Forget the pitch-black gloom and exorbitant prices of its predecessor; Mitsu is aiming for a far more approachable, and genuinely inviting, experience.

A brightening of east london

The transformation is striking. Gone is the imposing, almost oppressive atmosphere of Nobu, replaced by a space that feels surprisingly cosy, illuminated by twinkling lights and boasting an open robata kitchen. It’s a deliberate shift, a move away from the faded glamour of the 90s YBA scene and the electroclash days that Nobu so thoroughly embodied. The Aethos hotel’s team has seemingly sought to inject a dose of modern warmth into a space that once felt utterly devoid of personality.

Beyond sushi: a snack-focused menu

While Mitsu certainly delivers on classic sushi and sashimi – with excellent unagi and chutoro – the menu is surprisingly expansive. It’s not just about serious Japanese fare; there’s an emphasis on ‘lots of tasty little snacky things,’ including the ‘very good’ chicken tsukune skewers, perfect for dipping into sweet tare sauce. Don’t overlook the Shoreditch-inspired sandos either: a pork belly rendition with mustard and a decadent wagyu option with tonkatsu sauce, both utilizing rich, milky shokupan bread.

Fernando’s vision

Leading the charge is Aaj Fernando, previously of La Bodega Negra – a Soho institution that, back in 2012, was the hottest, most secretive spot in the city, notoriously difficult to secure a table for. Now, he’s overseeing Mitsu’s operations, catering to a new generation of ambitious, content-creating locals. I opted for a green tea, a deliberate abstention after my days of table-dancing in this postcode are firmly behind me – though I confess to contemplating a whisky highball or a glass of the Kanpai brewery’s sake.

A delicate balance

Mitsu isn't attempting to redefine Japanese cuisine. There’s a conscious effort to strike a balance between attracting Shoreditch’s new creative crowd – evidenced by the sandos and the occasional, visually arresting pudding – and satisfying the more traditional clientele who crave authentic sashimi and sake. It’s not groundbreaking, but it’s a genuinely pleasant space with excellent staff. The soundproofing is remarkably effective, creating an atmosphere conducive to conversation, whether you’re enjoying a group lunch or a quiet evening with a partner.

Final thoughts

Forget the monochrome existence of Nobu. Mitsu is a determinedly fun and delicious addition to London’s dining landscape. The hamachi, served in a pool of katsu ponzu with a silky cauliflower puree, was genuinely excellent. And those juicy chicken meatballs deserve a trip alone. Let’s just say, Nobu’s black cod and lack of lighting are a distant memory. Mitsu wins, hands down – 10-50.