Simpson's in the strand reopens: a london institution returns

Simpson's in the strand reopens: a london institution returns

London's iconic dining room, Simpson’s in the Strand, is set to reopen next month, marking a significant moment in the city's culinary scene. The storied establishment, a bicentennial celebration, is being revived by veteran restaurateur Jeremy King, a move hailed by many as the perfect pairing of tradition and modern flair.

Founded in 1828 as a coffee and chess club, Simpson’s quickly established itself as a cornerstone of London life. It was one of the few restaurants purpose-built outside of hotels, boasting a distinctive architecture that has captivated generations. The restaurant famously pioneered the use of wheeled silver trolleys to serve food, allowing players to continue their games undisturbed.

Jeremy King, who previously revitalized other celebrated London eateries like Le Caprice and The Ivy, has a long-standing affection for Simpson’s. He has courted the owners, the adjacent Savoy hotel, for over 20 years, seeing it as the ultimate culmination of his career. “As the last of the grande dame restaurants in London, Simpson’s was always going to be my heart’s desire,” King stated.

The restaurant’s history is deeply interwoven with London’s cultural fabric. Charles Dickens, PG Wodehouse, and Winston Churchill were all devoted patrons. Wodehouse famously described it as “a restful temple of food,” a place where diners were “at liberty to eat till you were helpless.” However, the main dining room wasn't always welcoming to all; women were excluded until 1984.

The closure of Simpson’s during the early days of Covid sparked mourning among many Londoners, who viewed it as a symbol of the city’s rich heritage. While other institutions gradually reopened, the grande dame of the Strand remained shuttered. The decision to bring it back to life is part of a broader trend of revitalizing historic spaces.

Jimi Famurewa, a restaurant critic, believes King is the ideal custodian for Simpson’s. He notes that the restaurant had become “a bit of a museum exhibit,” offering a nostalgic experience rather than a destination for regular dining. “For all that he respects tradition and the old-fashioned, swaggeringly glamorous way of doing things, he’s somebody who is about fun and revelry.”

Ben McCormack, a restaurant writer, echoes this sentiment, stating that Simpson's “was way past its sell-by date” and had become overly focused on catering to American tourists. He believes King understands the restaurant’s significance in London history and prioritizes the guest experience. He stresses that King’s restaurants are not just about the food, but about creating a specific atmosphere.

King acknowledges that even the most prestigious establishments can lose their luster. He emphasizes the dedication and energy required to rejuvenate such places. “It requires a great deal of determination and energy to rejuvenate and hence they sometimes change hands, the baton is passed, and they emerge either as a celebration of the history or completely changed. I am enjoying celebrating Simpson’s.”

Key features of Simpson's include:

• Edwardian opulence: Polished wood, gilded mirrors, and glittering chandeliers create a lavish atmosphere.
• Purpose-built architecture: The design, with its multiple spaces and sense of authority, is rare for restaurants outside of hotels.
• Historical significance: A favored spot for literary giants and a symbol of London's past.

The reopening of Simpson’s in the Strand is not just about reviving a restaurant; it’s about reclaiming a piece of London's history and ensuring that this iconic institution continues to thrive for generations to come.